TRAVEL | Sipalay's Sugar Beach: A beach far, far away

Being an archipelago, it's no surprise that the Philippines is home to a lot -- and I mean, a lot -- of great beaches. But the idea that there are also a few good ones in the southern part of Negros Occidental in the Visayas seems largely unheard of for most Filipinos. One of these is the kilometer-long Sugar Beach in the city of Sipalay, a land far, far away.

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The lovely Sugar Beach.

Looking for a nice, quiet beach far from the chaotic Holy Week crowd, My Bibe and I spent four nights at Sugar Beach. I first read about it from a magazine when we were at Anda, Bohol back in 2010, and was convinced to include it in my travel list. Finally the time was right.

Going to Sugar Beach reminded me of my earlier travels with My Bibe, where we regularly sought off-the-beaten-track destinations, usually with no hotel reservations whatsoever. We didn't completely dive back to that, however, as we still managed to afford ourselves some level of comfort.

We flew to Bacolod City and hired a car to take us to Sipalay. It did cost us money but we weren't too keen on riding a non-airconditioned bus that stops every few meters to unload and pick up passengers along the way. That said, a three to four-hour private ride would easily stretch to five hours or more.

No thanks to our delayed flight and several ongoing road construction projects along the way, it was already dark when we got off three kilometers from Sipalay, in a sleepy place called Montilla. We took a tricycle to Nauhang, traveling along an inland road bordered by rice fields and later, mangroves, walked a bit, then hopped on an outrigger boat that took us in front of our resort.

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Outrigger boats such as this one ferry visitors from any coastal point in Sipalay to Sugar Beach.

In the morning that followed, we finally got to see the beach for all its beauty. The sun was perfect and as expected, it was practically quiet. For the entire stretch of beach, there were no more than ten people swimming at any given time.

Unheard of by most Filipinos, Sugar Beach gets very little visitors, and most of them are Europeans. The only Filipinos that come are largely from Bacolod.

The beach
Up close, the sand is a medley of brown, gray and white (it's not powdery-fine, though). Collectively, they give a sugary, light brown appearance under the sun (hence, the name) but instantly darken when wet. With nary a rock or seaweed in sight, it's basically what makes up the beach, which, along with its perfect gradual slope, make it an ideal spot for swimming. Just don't come during typhoon season when the waves are huge and the beach is littered with driftwood and whatnot.

The beach is generously lined with coconut and other trees that provide lots of shade, much like this one here:

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Seriously, not all coconut trees here are this short.

While for two days it rained every mid-afternoon, it was still sunny for the most part. So I wasn't denied of my sunbathing sessions here.

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These clouds caused me a bit of panic. Was it gonna rain all throughout our stay?

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Thankfully the clouds parted and the sun's afternoon rays cast a warm glow over the beach.

Landscape
The beach is bookended by large rock formations, providing a nice backdrop for photographs.

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Facing north, what a lovely stroll.

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Down south, the rock formations are smaller, apparently small enough for goats to climb. What, you didn't spot the goat?

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There are no more resorts along this area. Still a pretty spot nonetheless.

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This area leads to a small community. I suppose if you go inland, you'll see the tidal river that people have to cross to get to Sugar Beach.

Fishing
Being in a rural coastal area, it's not uncommon to see fisherfolk casting their nets along the shoreline for fish. Even this close to shore, they do catch fish!

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A couple of kids reining in their nets.

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A kid pours seawater over their fresh catch.

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I don't know what these fish are called but I'm happy that at least a family or two can have a decent meal tonight.

Animals on the beach
The resort where we stayed in had two dogs. I also saw the resort next door had a huge white one. I don't know but I always love the sight of dogs on the beach. They all look their happiest to me when they're playing in the sand and more so in water. So imagine how thrilled I was when I saw a whole bunch of doggies frolicking on the beach! At first there were two, then a couple more came running toward them to join in the fun.

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It's nice to know that there's still a beach in the country where dogs can simply be dogs. I hope Boracay would reconsider.

Apparently dogs weren't the only ones who were free to roam the beach. There were goats, too. Goats that scale huge boulders!

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What the...?

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I'm afraid that with the moon nearing full, these goats will shape-shift into something else.

I haven't seen a cat here, though.

Sunsets
With Sugar Beach facing west, you're guaranteed glorious sunsets almost everyday. I've actually shot loads of sunset photos during my stay (You can check out Sunsets at Sugar Beach).

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The residual clouds following the rain actually provided interesting formations in the sky.

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Sunsets are simply beautiful here.

Where to stay
There are only a handful of resorts in Sugar Beach, all of which are pretty basic. Most of the accommodations, in fact, are fan-cooled native bungalows and nipa huts. Here's about everything:

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The Bermuda Beach Resort beachfront.

Right smack in the middle of Sugar Beach, this is where we stayed. With ten rooms, only three are airconditioned; the rest are fan-cooled native bungalows. All things being relative, this is definitely a great place to stay in Sugar Beach (Read my full Bermuda Beach Resort review).

Takatuka Lodge and Dive Resort
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Colorful, eh? Takatuka has some teepee-inspired cottages for shade.

Just right next to Bermuda, this place is as wacky as it can get with their eight uniquely themed rooms. Imagine a cave or pirate-inspired room! I was actually considering this place but My Bibe said all that kitsch is gonna drive her mad. I think kids will love it, though. Also, this is the only resort on Sugar Beach that offers diving.

Driftwood Village
This place prides itself in using only native materials for their bungalows. They also say that no two nipa huts are the same. I just don't know how many huts there are.

Sulu Sunset Beach Resort
This place has nine native cottages, all fan-cooled. They range from the most basic to bigger, more refined ones complete with veranda and hammock.

Langub Beach Resort
+639185738952
I don't know much about this one other than it's been around for a long while already. There's reportedly a kitchen that can be rented if you feel like cooking your own food. However, I suppose this is the least peaceful of resorts in Sugar Beach because with its day cottages for rent, this is where day trippers on a picnic normally go to.

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My Bibe and I at Sugar Beach, before our skin darkening sessions in the sun.

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GETTING THERE:

Philippine AirlinesCebu PacificAirphil Express, and Zest Air all operate daily flights from Manila to Bacolod, and except for Zest Air, to Dumaguete as well. There are also flights from Cebu.

By bus
Whether coming from Bacolod, hop on a Ceres bus (+6344334993; +6344342386; +6344342387) going to Hinoba-an, which will pass by Sipalay; if from Dumaguete, take one going to Sipalay (<'Php200, non-aircon). Aircon buses ply the route only once a day (check schedules with Ceres). If coming from Bacolod, go to the bus terminal in Sambok where the south-bound buses are.

Get off at Montilla, then take a tricycle to Nauhang (Php100 to Php150). Once there, you'll have to cross a tidal river on a paddle boat (>Php20/person), then walk all the way to your resort. Alternatively, you can get off after the bridge, walk a few feet to the beach, then board a motorized outrigger that will take you straight to your resort (Php150 to Php200/trip).

Another option is to get off at Sipalay proper and take a boat straight for Sugar Beach. It's best to arrange this with your resort in advance, though (approx. Php350/trip).

By car
Private trips to Sipalay can be arranged at the airport (Php 3,500 to Php 4,500/trip from Bacolod; I don't know how much if from Dumaguete). Or better yet, arrange this ahead with your resort to avoid being taken advantage of.

As with the bus option, you can get off at either Montilla or Sipalay proper. The same directions apply.

Comments

  1. Mel, yung 3.5-4.5k private car trip that's back and forth na? Or just one way?

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  2. 4k actually yung sa min. one-way lang. but you can rough it out in a bus if you want. there's an aircon bus i think at 6am. pero that means you have to stay overnight at bacolod first to catch that one. the return trip i think is at 2pm. pero check the schedules with ceres bus na rin.

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  3. Quien pudiera estar en ese paraíso ahora mismo tomando el sol :D

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  4. Wow! Great photos! This beach looks amazing!

    xx
    Giovanna
    www.oliveandanarrow.com

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  5. That Looks just so perfect to me right now!! hahahah
    You are so lucky! :)

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  6. I REALLY LOVE YOUR POST!! IT'S SO STUNNING!!!!WOW!!!DO U WANT TO FOLLOW EACH OTHER?

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  7. Now that you've been to both ... would you prefer Sugar Beach to Boracay? I agree your pictures are amazing. What kind of camera do you use?

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  8. Wow! I live in this province and yet I haven't seen such beauty. Will try visiting Sipalay during the holiday vacation!

    Keep traveling: www.travelandcount.com !

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  10. Your photos made me miss this place!

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  11. great article complete with captioned photos!

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  12. Absolutely STUNNING photography and a great blog entry. I wish our skills in both areas were this good. What camera were you using. We have been there twice. We just got back last week after two nights there, but it was off season - the beach was pretty dirty and there were no nice sunsets like there were in December when we went before. We stayed at Takatuka but ate at Sulu Sunset - the food there is fantastic and they have the best mango shakes in the entire world. Thanks again!

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  13. Absolutely STUNNING photography and a great blog entry. I wish our skills in both areas were this good. What camera were you using. We have been there twice. We just got back last week after two nights there, but it was off season - the beach was pretty dirty and there were no nice sunsets like there were in December when we went before. We stayed at Takatuka but ate at Sulu Sunset - the food there is fantastic and they have the best mango shakes in the entire world. Thanks again!

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  18. Are buses to Bacolod from Sipalay are 24 hours available?

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  30. I am very excited today and do not know where to start my testimony from. I was a poor woman with 3 kids, i found it difficult to pay my bills and feed my kids. My husband left me and the kids for another woman and ever since then we were living in pain and hunger but just few days ago i came across a testimony of a man who got a blank ATM card from Clifford Jackson so i immediately contacted them for the same type of ATM card and i am very happy to announce to the world that i am living a fulfilled life. This Blank ATM card can withdraw up to 10,000 dollars and more daily without you having any account with any Bank. I have been able to buy a house and living big with this blank ATM card. Are you poor and need help then contact Clifford Jackson via email: ( cliffordhackerspays@gmail.com )

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  41. We offer certified and verifiable financial bank instruments via Swift Transmission from a genuine provider capable
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  42. Hello,

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  43. Vreau să încep prin a-i mulțumi lui Dumnezeu pentru darul vieții.
    Suri îl numește Yono și vreau să împărtășesc o poveste bună despre cum dna. Maria Pedro de la Trust Guarantee Loan îmi face viața dulce. Am avut dificultăți financiare de o vreme și a trebuit să mă împrumut de la prieteni pentru că speram să-l plătesc după ce mi-am primit salariul.
    Și atunci viața mea s-a înrăutățit, am fost concediat de la serviciu și mi-am pierdut tatăl luna următoare. După înmormântarea tatălui meu, prietenii mei au început să ceară banii înapoi.

    Am fost devastat pentru că familia mea suferea și nu aveam bani să-mi plătesc datoriile. Prin urmare, am decis să merg la banca mea, BCA pentru a cere un împrumut, dar am refuzat împrumutul pentru că nu aveam un loc de muncă. Așa că eram disperat după bani pentru a-mi plăti datoriile. Apoi am decis să verific site-ul dacă vreau să văd un creditor privat de la care să pot împrumuta. De fapt, am văzut atât de multe povești bune online și am crezut că viața mea se va schimba definitiv, dar a fost atât de rău încât aproape că mi-am luat viața pentru că mi s-a cerut să plătesc mulți bani doar ca să nu obțin un împrumut.

    Dar tocmai când credeam că viața mea s-a terminat, atunci Dumnezeu s-a folosit de prietenul meu pe care l-am întâlnit la bancă să mă ajute. Prietenul meu, Ibu Erpan, i-am spus povestea mea și cum am fost concediat și împrumuturile online nu au funcționat. Prin urmare, mi-a spus să nu-mi fac griji că mă va prezenta creditorilor credibili pe care i-a împrumutat.

    Prin urmare, după ce mi-a spus cum a obținut împrumutul din împrumutul cu Garanție Garantată, am decis să contactez datele de contact pe care mi le-a dat: mariapedroguaranteetrustloan@gmail.com

    După aceea, procesul meu de aprobare a creditului a fost finalizat și am primit o scrisoare de aprobare din partea companiei care spunea că trebuie să furnizez detaliile mele bancare. Am primit o notificare de la banca mea că contul meu bancar a fost creditat cu suma de împrumut pe care am solicitat-o.
    Așa s-a schimbat viața mea și voi continua să împărtășesc vestea pentru ca toată lumea să vadă și să sune compania bună care mi-a schimbat situația.

    Puteți contacta Garanția Garantată prin e-mail: mariapedroguaranteetrustloan@gmail.com
    De asemenea, mă puteți contacta dacă aveți nevoie de ajutorul meu sau doriți să întrebați cum îmi obțin împrumutul. Iată adresa mea de e-mail: yonosuri702@gmail.com

    Și mai jos sunt detaliile contului meu care a fost creditat cu un împrumut din împrumutul cu garanție de încredere,
    Numele băncii: Bank BCA

    Adresa băncii: jln.dr.setiabudhi bandung

    Nume Yono

    Numar cont: 2348702337:

    Tip cont: Etapa BCA

    Imediat ce am achitat actele, mi-am primit imprumutul fara intarziere si astazi sunt independent financiar si acum am afacerea mea personala. Îi mulțumesc lui Dumnezeu pentru harul său pentru viața mea.

    ReplyDelete

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