FRAGRANCE | Oud Zarian EDP by Creed: Phenomenally complex yet approachable enough for every guy

Creed Oud Zarian has been on my radar since it was announced a couple of months ago, and it’s frustrating to still not see it on our third-world shelves (although I don’t know if it’s still not available locally as of writing). So when I had the chance, I sought it out at the Dubai airport (but only after feasting my nose on Amouage fragrances and taking home Opus XVI Timber). Yes, it's priced a lot higher than Creed's other offerings but the moment I smelled the mist coming out of that dark, reddish purple bottle, I was hooked.

Real oud or not, Oud Zarian is very rounded, warm, and elegant. Unlike Amouage Opus XV King Blue and many other oud-centric frags, Creed's latest release is devoid of any animalic funk. Not that I dislike King Blue and funky oud in general but I can't help but admire how the perfumer approached this assignment and presented a cleaned-up oud without stripping it of its character. Compared to Maison Francis Kurkdjian's Oud Mood Collection, which all smell much cleaner, lighter, and uber-polished, presumably to cater more to Western tastes, Oud Zarian feels a lot warmer, denser, and bolder with its use of spices and sweet resins, something I surmise is more attuned to Middle Eastern preferences.

The opening has a pervading sweet and spicy warmth, lightly contrasted by a bitter ginger and citrus zing. I think I got carried away the first time because I noticed the ginger and citrus only upon closer inspection and after a couple of wears. I guess both notes weren't really powerful to begin with and weren't intended to last long either. However short their stay, they continue to project their combined essence for a few more minutes. 

Moments later, a cold incense enters the picture, piercing through the warmth and density with its near-camphoraceous tone. While also not as strong, it manages to prolong the contrasting lightness even for just a few more minutes before the scent completely takes on a darker and heavier tone, which starts once the licorice kicks in. As the citrus and ginger fade, the licorice works its sweet and somewhat burnt flavor into the mix. And if you pay close attention, you might notice how splendid its momentary interaction with the cold incense is before the latter completely dissipates.

With the lighter elements of the opening gone, the increasing weight of the scent becomes more apparent. The resulting blend of spices, sweet resins, and licorice is nothing short of phenomenal, accentuating the oud's woody properties exquisitely. Just like in the fantastic Parfums de Nicolaï Cuir Cuba Intense, the addition of licorice simply works wonders in Oud Zarian. It just gives the scent a distinctly different flavor that works in perfect harmony with all other elements in the composition. Once everything settles, the scent takes on a linear direction that continues to enthrall with its nuclear projection and impressive lasting power.

Despite its Middle Eastern-leaning palate, I think Oud Zarian is a terrific introduction to oud, for men in particular. The spices are perfectly rounded and there's no animalic pungency to scare any novice or casual fragrance wearer away, having rid the scent of all perceived nastiness (that are perhaps pure bliss to hardcore fragrance aficionados) yet carefully preserving the oud's character to facilitate that introduction. Think how Wren Atelier Manila Oud made this prized ingredient more approachable while giving it a Filipino spin, only Creed went further East into the Arabian Peninsula with its treatment. Nevertheless, wherever you are in your fragrance journey, Creed Oud Zarian is something I highly recommend trying.