FRAGRANCE | Manila Oud Parfum by Wren Atelier: An oud frag for Manila weather

When Philippine fragrance house Wren Atelier announced that it was releasing an oud frag, I honestly wasn't that excited to get one right away. I know I'll be getting a bottle eventually but I felt no rush, perhaps because I already have a lot of oud in my arsenal. But then owner and perfumer RJ Lopena later teased Filipino references like calamansi and banana cue, so yeah, my curiosity was tickled. Hello, Manila Oud!

As with his debut showcase scent Hacienderos—which, after selling out, has since been re-released under its new Private Collection—Manila Oud is also in parfum concentration, with a visibly oily consistency on skin. The presentation has also changed, most notably the bottle, which is now 100ml. It also now comes in a pullout box with inside velvet-covered cushioning. Nice upgrade there! 

The oud is already felt right at the onset. It leans more woody than skanky, so there's absolutely no need to be scared. Alongside it is a mild, spicy citrus accord that brings just a bit of zing and contrasting warmth to the scent. Then there's just a tiny speck of sweetness to completely round the scent out. After a few minutes of checking the scene out, the oud drops a floor below, which allow me to smell the citrusy calamansi a tad better. It's not too distinct in the air but if you sniff it up close, it's recognizable. Same goes for the ginger. All in all, this is a nice opening combo of notes. 

As the minutes go by, something hay-like slowly appears. It takes its time, as if not wanting to cross paths with the calamansi and ginger as they figure their way out. With nary any sweetness around, the hay only adds to the dryness of the woody oud. And I like it. I already have far too many sweetened oud and woody frags (Tom Ford's Oud Wood and Thameen's Nassak, to name a few) that having something with a dry take on the material is a much welcome change. And then comes incense, an ingredient I also love. At its core, it has that unmistakable churchy vibe but the oud here has effectively "darkened" it, deepened it handsomely. 

Thirty minutes in and I think I'm starting to get the much-touted banana cue accord. To the uninitiated, banana cue is a Filipino street food of plantains deep-fried in oil and brown sugar, two or three pieces of which are skewered together just like barbecue; hence, the name. Unfortunately, on my skin it doesn't really pop. Somehow obscured by the hay and incense, I have to sniff hard and up close, as it's easy to miss. The dryness only intensifies from here and by the end of the first hour, the hay is lording over everything else with its dustiness. The oud, however, makes a belated comeback in the late drydown. It remains generally dehydrated but warm in its characteristic woodiness. 

Hardcore oud lovers may find Manila Oud wanting because the oud is not as dominant as in fragrances like, say, Ajmal's Dahn Oudh Al Shams or even in Areej Le Doré's much more approachable Chinese Oud. Instead, it subtly introduces oud to the casual wearer. Regardless, it is a fine fragrance for what it is and much like Hacienderos, it performs really well. It has this masculine slant that projects confidence, making it an ideal wear in more formal settings. Furthermore, its prevalent dryness makes Manila Oud generally suitable for Manila's warm weather. All said, more so for the advancement of Philippine perfumery, this is worth our support.