FRAGRANCE | Oudh Al Boruzz Abeer Malaysia EDP by Rasasi: Middle Eastern but surprisingly Western

I haven't had any experience with Dubai-based Rasasi apart from decants of Hawas given to me as freebies. I've definitely heard of La Yuqawam and Al Wisam many times over but as it turns out, my first proper introduction to the house would be via their Boruzz line. Oudh Al Boruzz Abeer Malaysia is one of two bottles that I got, the other being Asrar Indonesia.

Let me start by saying how much I admire the presentation. Yes, there's a little problem with how the top and base of the box fit, which makes opening and closing it not that easy, but my, the bottle itself is just drop-dead gorgeous! Bedecked in gold, it showcases sleek diagonal lines, a seamless interplay between metal and glass, and a beautiful Arabic typeface. It's a work of art that puts to shame a lot of other generic-looking bottles released by houses that charge a lot more.

Part of the bottle is already peeking through a diagonal window in the box.

Gold has never looked more elegant than this.

Abeer Malaysia opens with a sweet and refined oud, along with a dark, smoky leather and a mild fruity accord. The oud is surprisingly pleasant and bereft of any skank, projecting a woody character instead. For something produced in the Middle East, it actually smells very Western, so I don't think it's bound to offend anyone near you. It's very masculine-leaning, however.

A plasticky accord enters shortly, with iris and violet being the likely culprits. I'm not sure if it reminds me more of Commodity's Whiskey or Ermenegildo Zegna's Florentine Iris. Either way, it attempts to dominate the scent almost immediately—much to my surprise since I was geared up for an oud fragrance—although the smoky leather is seriously keeping it at bay. An earthy patchouli joins in after a few minutes while the sourness from the oud starts peeking through later.

By the first hour, the iris and violet combo has mostly lifted, and the smoky wood and leather are now at the fore, keeping guard up to the very end. I love the slightly burnt smell, with just a tinge of fruity sweetness around the edges to keep it from being too edgy and alienate some people. It's not a one-of-a-kind scent but I like it and the overall dryness of the fragrance enough.

Abeer Malaysia is not a shouter, its projection being generally moderate but enough to get noticed. It starts softening after 3 or 4 hours but is nonetheless long-lasting. It's a little dark but it isn't a heavy scent to wear, so it can work in warmer climates, provided it's not sweltering of course. I see that it suits formal occasions but it also works just as fine on any day. It's pricier than most of Rasasi's other offerings but all in all, it's worth giving a shot.