FRAGRANCE | Noir Illuminé Extrait de Parfum by Amouroud: A creamy elixir of warmth and spice

Noir Illuminé is one of three fragrances under Amouroud's Elixir Collection, released in 2019. All three are in extrait de parfum concentration and are marketed as the house's top of the line fragrances. The presentation is reflective of the premium branding with a solid lift-top box, satin-lined inside cushioning, engraved gold metal plates, and an accompanying sturdy sleeve with an inner felt lining. The bottle has an exotic vibe to it, perhaps due to its shape and overall aesthetic. To me, the upper gold part resembles something like a pharaoh's neck piece. It's also thick and heavy but not as hefty as the likes of Electimuss and Royal Crown.

As for the fragrance itself, there's a warm and woody oud that springs to life right at the start, accompanied by a mild and fleeting sweetness. It's a clean and very tame type of oud with nothing animalic or fecal in it at all, not even a hint. Unfortunately it's too mild that it's immediately drowned out by a spicy sharpness, mainly from ginger. It's followed shortly by a wave of something earthy and nutty, along with a budding creaminess.

For a few minutes the spiciness remains in the foreground, the woodiness in the background, while the nuttiness and developing creaminess go whirling around unperturbed. The ginger loses much of its sharpness rather quickly but the resulting scent is almost camphorous in tone, providing a fitting counterpoint to the creaminess without being jarring. The interplay among notes here is nice and subtle; nothing overly punctuated. However, I can't help but pine for the oud, which has practically been eviscerated so early in the game. For a house with oud in its name, that's sad. 

The creaminess continues to grow, possibly bolstered by abstract florals, until it dominates the whole scent, enveloping you with its brand of spicy warmth. The earthiness and woodiness are now reduced to whispers but I think they quietly provide the nutty creaminess character. From hereon, the scent bears an uncanny resemblance to Tom Ford Black Orchid, and in that respect, Noir Illuminé loses points for originality.

Longevity is fairly good, as a couple of sprays can net you several hours. It projects loudly in its first two or three hours before it begins a gradual decline in strength. With its warm and relatively dense profile, Amouroud's Noir Illuminé seems perfect for colder temperatures and evening wear. It also carries an air of formality, making it ideal for special occasions. Overall, it's a really good fragrance but it may feel a little redundant if you already own Black Orchid. Just the same, it's always worth a try.