FRAGRANCE | Much Ado About the Duke EDP by Penhaligon's: A warm and sensual, spicy affair

halfwhiteboy - Much Ado About the Duke by Penhaligon's 01

Regardless of the Bridgerton-esque stories Penhaligon's churns out with their Portraits Collection, I'm a fan of the bottles, the caps in particular. And with Much Ado About the Duke, I can't help but think, "Good boi!" because of the canine head. Really, it's cute.

As for the scent, this doggy has an unmistakable spiciness characterized by a cumin-like warmth, which is immediately noticeable upon spraying and is enough to already turn some people away. It's accompanied by a citric-like, alcoholic sharpness that, together with said spiciness, don't really sound appealing to most noses. It's an initial impression akin to how I felt about The Uncompromising Sohan the first time I tried it but I've since gotten around it and now I love that frag.

In an attempt to soften things down, there's some rose working in the background although the spice easily overpowers it, at least at the start. A woody backdrop is then propped up; kind of muted (on some days more prominent) but helps reinforce the scent's overall dry profile. There's also an animalic tinge lurking that makes the scent a little "dirty." Leather perhaps?

halfwhiteboy - Much Ado About the Duke by Penhaligon's 02
halfwhiteboy - Much Ado About the Duke by Penhaligon's 03

Anyhow, if it's any consolation, Duke is no beast to begin with. Moreover, the spiciness tapers off over time, along with the fragrance's overall intensity. On the other hand, the rose belatedly unfolds, bringing along a bit of sweetness and moisture, a fitting counterpoint to the warm and dry spices. However, it never fully rises to the top and still largely defers to the spices, content with balancing off its inherent funk without overshadowing it. I would have wanted a bit more rose, though. After this, the scent doesn't develop any further, except for its general decrease in strength.

Much Ado About the Duke certainly isn't for everyone. Your nose has to be accustomed to spices in perfumery and wearing it entails a certain degree of confidence. Otherwise, you will only see it as a stink bomb instead of something sensual and carnal. The warm spiciness tips the scales more toward masculine territory and toward colder day use, preferably in more formal settings or at nighttime. My only complaint (apart from the price) is its less than stellar performance, which necessitates a respray or two. Still, it's something worth sampling.

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