FRAGRANCE | Gucci pour Homme EDT (1976): A masculine chypre masterpiece

What a beauty! The moment I saw this posted in one of our Facebook groups I just snapped it up without delay. I didn't even bother looking it up. I just knew it was good and that I had to get hold of it. The worn-out box alone is a telltale sign that this stuff is old, the labeling clearly from another era. The inside corrugated cushioning has also completely yellowed. And there's no barcode! Without a doubt, this is a vintage bottle of Gucci pour Homme.

This being a chypre from the 70s, I was excited about the oakmoss—and it did not disappoint. Its earthy, mossy beauty—still untouched by IFRA and reformulations—is already evident from the start although the fragrance itself opens with a bright, lemony citrus, followed shortly by a gorgeously smooth lavender. The scent is clean and fresh but unmistakably masculine.

A powdery facet later appears, which I believe is the iris. It's not overly powdery, just enough to inject an added character to the overall composition. I can't clearly make out the notes that follow. Simply put, it's a medley of different things—beautiful and complex. I'm really enjoying the many different layers here!

[Also see: Bijan Men EDT by Bijan: May be dated but gorgeously so]

As the fragrance begins to settle down, the oakmoss starts peeking through again, dry and wonderful. I get a creamy texture, some soapiness but still creamy. The drydown is an impressive exercise in restraint, a masterful blend of the smoothest and mildest of leathers, some earthy woodiness, ample drops of smoky sweetness, a carefully measured dab of musk, and of course, oakmoss. It's amazing how none of them try to outdo the other. Everything is just perfectly balanced. I had to bury my nose deep into my wrist to try and make out each note individually but it's really hard. I'm just in awe.

The 1976 Gucci pour Homme is truly a masterpiece, a timeless statement of 70s class and refinement. It's a shame—a crime even—that it's been discontinued, although the Gucci pour Homme of the Tom Ford era is also something else on its own right. But then again, that one has also been sadly discontinued. It's always frustrating why the good ones are killed off because my few experiences with this house have only ended in disappointment, with the exception of Gucci Guilty Absolute, which I hope signals a turnaround for the brand. But wouldn't everyone be happier if Gucci just brought back both versions of pour Homme?

The 70s original is by no means a monster but is not a wimp either. It's strongest in its first two hours but the scent stays with you all day, albeit mostly as a skin scent. Nevertheless it surprises you with occasional bursts of chypre goodness when you least expect it. I find that it suits most settings and weather conditions, making it very versatile. The scent profile may lean towards older men (or at least those with mature tastes in fragrances) by current mainstream standards, but if you chance upon a bottle, by all means just go get it.