FRAGRANCE | Black No. 1 EDP (f.k.a. Blackbird) by House of Matriarch: Handsomely dark and brooding

Originally introduced as Blackbird, natural perfumery house House of Matriarch later renamed their award-winning release to Black No.1. They say it's a mere change in name and that it's still the same formulation. I have no point of comparison, however. What I have is the bottle bearing the name Black No.1, so let's use that anyway if that's what it's called now.

Black No. 1 sure lives up to its name in that it's a really dark fragrance. Immediately it gives you a barrage of dark, dry, smoky leather and a subtly sweet but also dark oud. There's a salty note accompanying the opening but unfortunately it's gone too soon. It would have been a really interesting counterpoint to all the dryness had it been prolonged even a bit more.

There's also a woodsy vibe in the background but the overall impression this fragrance gives is, well, dark (I don't think I can say that enough). Intense and heavy, too. Although dry, the leather doesn't come off as sharp like Davidoff Leather Blend. And while definitely not as sweet, its smokiness calls to mind Nabeel's Arab Tradition or Tom Ford's Ombre Leather—but only to an extent of course. And no, they do not smell alike. As for the oud, it's not the barnyard kind, and it complements the leather instead of competing with it.

Alas, in less than an hour Black No.1 has shed a layer or two of its dark clothing! The sweetness has managed to gradually come forward to mingle with the smokiness, easing some of the dryness off. I'm also getting a bit of that briny note back but it sits far in the background, along with a fuzzy musk. The scent has now become a little more approachable while still retaining its brooding demeanor. As each note fades, the musk—still with a hint of sweetness and smokiness—is the last to go.

I really like this fragrance although I enjoy the opening more than the drydown. Quite surprisingly, Black No.1 is no beast. While it starts strong, it stays mostly in the modest lane and lasts for several hours (morning till afternoon, or early evening). I find that it's best suited for evenings and colder temperatures, and perhaps select formal occasions. The primary drawback in getting a bottle, however, is the price—not unless USD 330 for 50ml isn't much of an issue for you. And no, that amount doesn't come with a fancy presentation like some other houses. Definitely try before you commit.