FRAGRANCE | Poudrextase EDP by Marlou: Dry, musky, and beautiful

halfwhiteboy - Marlou Poudrextase EDP 01a

I got a chance to try Poudrextase by niche fragrance house Marlou in the dead of summer. I had no prior knowledge of this relatively new brand but apparently they have a penchant for the animalic, something I don't think many people would reach for in sweltering heat. That said, I wasn't too keen on it when I first sniffed it. But I tried it again.

First off, I like the brand aesthetic—minimalist and unassuming. The oversize cork stopper complements the dark amber glass bottle perfectly, itself neatly slapped with a very clinical-looking label. The whole look is like some old-school, generic prescription drug that's so retro cool. What I don't like so much is the rather flimsy cardboard box but it's no big deal.

The fragrance indeed has an undeniable animalic character, which it proudly carries right from the opening. It's not as off-putting as I thought it would be, especially in colder or temperature-controlled settings. By contrast, Cupid MVI is way stronger and unabashed in its pungency. With Poudrextase, there's just a little skank in the blend but it's easily tempered by a dusty rose note and a powdery accord, along with a very slight sourness in the background.

halfwhiteboy - Marlou Poudrextase EDP 02a

After some time, the animalic skank gradually exits and a considerable load of musk takes its place. The rose and powdery accord still keep it in check, though, so it never becomes overpowering. In fact, they coalesce seamlessly into this dusty, powdery musk of a drydown, a lovely dichotomy between clean and dirty. While vastly different, it's a contrast I also see in YSL Kouros, that juxtaposition between shower-fresh clean and salty muskiness.

Poudrextase is a really dry fragrance all throughout. The more I smell it, the more I like it. The scent is very long-lasting although projection is mostly moderate. But I think it works best when it's close to the skin, teasing you with its whispers, inviting you closer to experience its allure. Although I have no point of comparison, Poudrextase is said to be the least animalic of Marlou's three releases so far, effectively making it the most wearable. Still, it's not for everybody and I strongly suggest to try before you buy. But for me, I think I want a bottle.

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