FRAGRANCE | Poison Esprit de Parfum by Christian Dior: A powerful and complex iteration of an icon

Christian Dior's Poison is an icon that arguably defined—or at least solidified—the powerhouse trend of the 80s. The fragrance in that symbolic, stylized, apple-shaped bottle spawned a number of flankers, including this esprit de parfum version from the 90s. I know eau de parfum and extrait de parfum but esprit de parfum? I suppose it's a cross between the two? 

Anyway, Poison Esprit de Parfum opens with a brief blast of plum before being overtaken by a barrage of white florals. It took me a while to realize it was tuberose leading the charge because it didn't carry that familiar creaminess I've come to expect of this flower. Compared to, say, Roja's Tuberose, the tuberose here is stripped of its indolic and fleshy properties, leaving it rather clean and light. However, it isn't bland at all, as it's given a strong spicy support, along with a fruity sweetness from the plum. 

After being momentarily sidetracked, the plum promptly comes back after a few minutes, going toe to toe with the tuberose in strength. Both are quite loud, by the way, neither of which seems to be backing down just yet. The plum isn't particularly juicy like Tom Ford's Plum Japonais but its fruitiness is well pronounced.

Later I get some cinnamon coming through, further adding to the fragrance's spicy factor. The drydown sees a certain muskiness and smokiness mixing with the sticky, fruity sweetness, the white florals, and the cinnamon spiciness, creating a dizzying whirl of different scents that altogether form this intoxicating potion worthy of its name. A sharp woodiness appears much later but it stays in the background and doesn't really come to the fore. After several hours, I'm left with a fragrant, floral musk, with the spiciness and sweetness considerably muted. Although much softer by now, I can still catch whiffs of it, with your body heat giving it the occasional push. 

Poison Esprit de Parfum is a powerful fragrance that expectedly leans more mature. I understand why some will find it dated because the scent does play differently from contemporary releases. However, I'd say it's a classic and it takes a certain kind of person—woman or man—to pull it off with unshakable confidence. I see it best worn for evenings and formal occasions, ideally when the weather is cold, although you can still push it as long as it's not too hot. This is truly a gem.