FRAGRANCE | Agar de Noir Extrait de Parfum by Areej Le Doré: A bold and gorgeously layered experience

When Areej Le Doré began promoting the release of his 6th Collection some months ago, I consciously dissuaded myself from making any plans of buying. The brand has certainly created a following and the hype surrounding each release has only grown steadily, leaving many a fan frustrated for failing to secure their coveted picks. For instance, Antiquity and War and Peace from his 5th Collection sold out in no time (although I had my chance when he came up with War and Peace II shortly after). Discovery sets, which were sold alongside the regular 30ml bottles, were rendered useless. I thought I wasn't going to set myself up for disappointment; hence, the conscious indifference. 

While the brand rolled out a much more sensible strategy this time—where discovery sets were sold alongside limited quantities of full bottles ahead of the regular release—the preorders were a mess. Their website was predictably flooded and many customers couldn't get through, venting out their anger and frustration online. I never bothered, though, thinking I would just sleep on this release. But then November came and save for Santal Galore, stocks were available once again. It's meant to be after all. We got Grandenia and Agar de Noir. 

Where each of his previous collections featured its own uniform presentation, Areej Le Doré deviated from custom by going for three different bottle designs this time around. Santal Galore is of course a standout being the only 50ml bottle in the bunch. It's also the only one that comes in a teakwood box whereas the rest are in cushioned flip-top boxes. Agar de Noir is one of two with a vertically shaped bottle and a protracted dome stopper. The other two flacons are squarish with pointed caps. All in all, the presentation is pretty good. My only complaint is the typeface of the text inside the box, which seems out of place in the fragrance's overall aesthetic. But yeah, that sounds like I'm nitpicking already. 

Now let's get to the scent. Agar de Noir opens with a billowing dark smoke that parts almost immediately to reveal a confluence of violets, spices, leather, and wood. They arrive at the scene one after the other just minutes, or even seconds, apart. The violets have that familiar plasticky trait to them, which, together with the smokiness, call to mind Rasasi's Oudh Al Boruzz Abeer Malaysia, at least in part. The spices are beautifully rounded, with absolutely no piercing sharpness at all. The wood and leather, on the other hand, give off a deep and aged feel to them, complemented perfectly by the pervading smokiness. It has mellowed considerably from its powerful introduction but it remains a key player nonetheless. 

A resinous sweetness follows shortly, coating the scent with its thick and deep—but not necessarily dark—character. To my nose, the ambery sweetness is just about right, enough to give the scent an added flavor without being overwhelming. I was expecting a prominent coffee because of comparisons to Oud Luwak, which I don't have but had the chance of smelling. Unfortunately for me, it stays largely in the background. Instead, I'm getting a sweet and bitter chocolatey accord. On second thought, it could be the coffee at play and its interaction with other elements responsible for the resulting scent. There's definitely oud here, too, but its treatment is devoid of any unwanted funk. 

The violet and sweetness grow a little stronger after several minutes. You'd think they'll be dominating the scent but close to thirty minutes in, the smokiness, oud, and leather crash the party. The violet and sweet resin put up a fight, however, and a prolonged tug of war for dominance ensues between the two factions. And my, is it a very rewarding experience for me! They tire eventually and slump altogether on the floor, their individual characteristics now nearly blurred. At this point, musk is introduced into the fold, and Agar de Noir evolves into this warm but relatively dry scent, projecting beautifully until it fades hours later. 

As with my experience with War and Peace II, performance is excellent with Agar de Noir, both in terms of projection and longevity. It's a scent that's not for everyone but for me it's an expertly composed fragrance that's bold and one that offers a lot of depth and character. I was hoping for a really dark scent as promised by its "darkness upon darkness" marketing pitch but I don't really get that here. If any, it's the liquid that's very dark and which can potentially stain your clothes, so be careful. Nevertheless, I'm very happy with it and it's a must-try in my opinion.