FRAGRANCE | Vial trial: mvrn Parfums Premier Collection
It's nice to see more and more players in the local perfumery scene, and mvrn Parfums is the newest kid on the block. For its Premier Collection, this Philippine indie house has released six fragrances. I ordered a discovery set and it's a steal at only Php 500. The packaging's black and gold aesthetic looks so chic, plus the wax seal is so extra—yes, for a measly 500 bucks.
Halcyon
I smell orange, white florals, and something plasticky (violet perhaps?). The orange is a bit sharp but is never too piercing. It lends the scent a general sense of brightness. Halcyon's white floral properties reveal themselves more after several minutes, going toe to toe with the orange until they overtake it down the road. It's practically linear from hereon. It reminds me of something from Whiff Artisanal Perfumes (not sure if it's White Drops) although they're not necessarily the same in terms of scent profile. This one is pleasant and perfect for our tropical climate.
Dulcis
As one might expect from the name, Dulcis is filled with a candy-like sweetness. I also get some florals at the start but they eventually fade. I mentioned candy, so this isn't a heavy kind of sweetness. It starts off thin but goes on to melt after a few minutes, imbuing itself with just a bit more weight in the process. A light muskiness emerges after a few minutes but nothing too jarring. The scent later develops a certain sharpness but it eventually eases and becomes warmer and rounder over time. Dulcis is for lovers of sweet scents but who don't want anything too complicated.
Poseidon
Ah, the token aquatic of the bunch, I thought. Sure enough, Poseidon opens with unabashed, aquatic freshness. What I observed, though, is that it's marked by a literal, cooling sensation that I really enjoy. It kind of reminds me of what mint does to scents like Balenciaga's Florabotanica and Mugler's A*Men Kryptomint. There's a mild sharpness typical of aquatics and marine frags, a bit of sweetness, and after a few more minutes, a mild woody facet in the background. Everything eventually relaxes into a sweet, woody base, with an overarching cloud of marine freshness. I'm not a fan of this fragrance family but I must say that I do like the drydown, which oscillates between sharp and rounded.
Amaranth
Amaranth is a lush bouquet of sweet, fresh florals. There's a soapy dimension to it as well and this soapy freshness develops further over time, giving off a nice and clean vibe. Sampaguita is noticeable, which I find exciting, especially after being let down by Ormonde Jayne's Sampaquita (still a really lovely fragrance, however). The sweetness thickens a bit over time but the scent never loses its soapy-floral character.
Forte
This looks like it's aimed at the guys. Forte opens with a marine fresh character, spiced up with a pinch of black pepper. It's also earthy at the same time, if that makes any sense. The black pepper isn't the usual spicy-sharp kind in frags like Valentino Uomo Intense. It's way milder yet it still affords the scent a certain bite amid all the freshness. There's an herbal quality to it, too, somehow. Later, a dry, woody facet comes to the fore—and then goes away. In its wake, it leaves a semi-sweet, marine scent, punctuated by a now sharper black pepper. Further down the road, however, the scent becomes rounder and warmer, settling on the skin rather nicely. Personally, I find Forte quite interesting.
Ambrosia
Right off the bat, I'm greeted by the warmth of fragrant sticky rice. But instead of mango, it's topped with sweet pineapple. The sticky rice is quite realistic; you can really smell the rice and coconut. For a few moments, there's our beloved sampaguita peeking through although it generally defers to the rice and coconut. The pineapple is an interesting touch, which contrasts with the inherent weight of the sticky rice and lifts the whole scent up. After several minutes, the pineapple and florals grow stronger and rise above the sticky rice—maybe even to a fault. Somehow they take away from the warmth and comfort the blend of rice and coconut offers but that's just my preference. Nonetheless, Ambrosia is an intriguing gourmand worth trying.
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mvrn Parfums's Premier Collection offers a little something for everybody. All six are in extrait de parfum concentration with generally moderate projection. The fragrances are easy on the nose, nothing outrageous or overly complex, while affording options for those who want safe and pleasant or something intriguing and unconventional. Go check them out!
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