FRAGRANCE | Tom Ford Noir Anthracite EDP proves that the house can be bold if it wants to

I almost forgot I have this but I consider myself lucky because somehow, I didn't get the memo that Tom Ford Noir Anthracite has already been discontinued. It's part of Tom Ford's Noir Series of fragrances that come in similarly designed squarish bottles with ribbed detailing. Anthracite's bottle, in particular, has this metallic sheen that causes a fuzzy reflection of anything in front of it. And I like it because I find that there's an understated elegance to its straightforward, boxy shape.

A peppery citrus and ginger cocktail kicks off the show. This note combination would normally be bright and uplifting but there's an underlying bitter greenness that pulls it all back, like Phastos reining in Ikaris in Eternals. Oh no, just in case you didn't notice the words "noir" and "anthracite" in the bottle, this ain't a cheer-me-up scent. It's cold, dark, and with a sweetening agent practically absent, dry. But for someone like me who really digs dark scents, it's totally right up my alley. 

The bitter green accord spreads out, filling every space and crevice it can find. Meanwhile, the sharp spices continue to unravel, casting a flavorful aroma over the ensuing bitterness, hints of citrus and ginger quietly lingering. Not long after, a burnt woody smell with leather undertones slowly rises. It's not particularly smoky like House of Matriarch's Back No. 1 or Areej Le Doré's Manly but more like tarry, which only heightens the fragrance's dry and bitter demeanor. It smells confident and masculine while evoking an air of mystery and snobbery that I find really alluring.

The fragrance projects moderately for the most part but only after a fairly strong first hour or two. As it gradually settles on the skin, it takes on a very, very mildly sweet turn but with the burnt wood and leather still in control. By now, any trace of citrus is long gone. The spices, on the other hand, are muted but they have already imprinted their character on the wood and leather. Absolutely gorgeous. 

Despite the name, I don't see it as something restricted to evenings, let alone formal affairs. Yes, it's dark but because of its characteristic dryness, it can definitely work in moderately warm temperatures. While it won't be to everyone's taste, Noir Anthracite is arguably one of Tom Ford's better releases, easily besting many of his recent, more expensive Private Blend offerings that are sadly wanting in boldness and character. As to why such a good fragrance is no longer produced, I can only sigh.