FRAGRANCE | Beloved Man EDP by Amouage: An Amouage that doesn't feel like one
I finally got to wear Amouage Beloved Man, a 2013 release from the
Omani house. It's a shame that my bottle has been sitting unopened since
before the pandemic but I guess, better late than never. I won't talk about
the presentation, as it's standard Amouage anyway, so I'll dive right into the
scent.
I'm greeted with an aromatic, lemony opening that's beautifully infused with
a warm, rounded spiciness and a feathery, incense-like smokiness. Unlike
most Amouages that I've tried, it doesn't announce its presence loudly,
which I find rather unusual for the brand. The citruses are bereft of any
nostril-piercing sharpness (think how rounded the citruses are in
Succus by Liquides Imaginaires) while the smokiness is even lighter than the wispy incense in
Serge Noir by Serge Lutens. Already at the onset, this is shaping up to be different from the house's
usual heavy-hitters.
Anyway, in a few short minutes, the warmth of the spices morph into
something fresh, slowly revealing a gentle, prickly quality (emphasis on
gentle). The scent is light overall, with the perfect balance of sweet and
bitter, neither of which attempts to outdo the other. There's also a mild,
powdery hum when smelled up close and isn't particularly noticeable in the
air.
Later, a woody base slowly appears, infused with all the flavors and aromas
from earlier. It never fully rises to the surface, however. Nevertheless, I
love how the shy smokiness continues to discreetly swirl around playfully with
all the citric and spicy accords. Eventually, the scent becomes a little
warmer and sweeter as the spices begin to soften (although some sharpness
occasionally pops up) and the resins reveal a tiny bit more of their own brand
of sweetness. The woodiness also becomes much more apparent over time. The
scent carries on like this until everything becomes a warm and pleasant blur.
Elemi is listed as a note in this fragrance and appears to be quite
prominent, according to some reviewers. I personally have not smelled either
elemi oil or elemi resins, so I can't say I pick its essence up. All I know
is that it's a resin extracted from the sap of pili trees in the Bicol
region of the Philippines, that it has a lemony facet, a fresh and peppery
character, and can also be woody and smoky like frankincense. Having said
that, however, it appears that elemi's characteristics are manifested in the
composition after all. Lovely!
While pretty good in terms of longevity, Beloved Man is uncharacteristically
Amouage in terms of projection—and even in terms of scent profile. It kind of
reminds me of how
Nautica's Latitude Longitude
(now discontinued) doesn't seem like a Nautica at all. Make no mistake,
though, because Beloved Man is a nice scent and I really like it. It
smells refined and very gentlemanly even if it errs on the side of restraint
when presenting itself.
Now since it doesn't wear its manliness on its sleeve, the fragrance can
easily be worn by the opposite sex. For me, that's a good thing. Also, its
general pleasantness makes it a good wear for practically any occasion and
weather. The downside, of course, is the price, and it will definitely weigh
on your opinion as to whether it's worth buying or not.
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