FRAGRANCE | Vial trial: All about the base with the entire Affinessence Base Notes Collection

Affinessence Paris has an interesting concept for its Collection Notes de Fond (Base Notes Collection), its only line so far. It focuses on base notes, or rather, essences that are traditionally used as base notes. Because it's "all about the base," you'd think that each fragrance will be downright linear as a result. In reality, however, there's a noticeable development in each of the six eaux de parfum the house has so far. Here's a rundown of each one.

Musc-Ambre Gris (Musk-Ambergris)
There's a stinging sharpness at the start but thankfully it eases within seconds. It's still sharp, though, and it lingers even as a sweet saltiness comes to the fore, soon followed by musk. I love the interplay among sweet, salty, and musky here. Somehow it gives off a warm and earthy vibe that I do enjoy. Projection is between moderate to strong for probably 3 hours before it starts settling close to the skin.

If it weren't for the sharpness, which I personally find off-putting, Musc-Ambre Gris would make for a really nice fragrance for me. I don't know how it is on other people but I guess I can chalk it up to a skin chemistry thing for me. Unfortunately because of that, getting a full bottle is a foregone thought for me. If you have the chance, try it, though.

Santal-Basmati (Sandalwood-Basmati)
True to its name, this is a fragrance with a very prominent blend of sweet, creamy sandalwood and fragrant rice. Right off the bat I love it already. The rice reminds me, albeit remotely, of Serge Lutens Jeux de Peau. I know there's no rice in there but somehow it just gives off a similarly comforting vibe to me. Meanwhile the creaminess takes on a lovely and delectably oily turn, something I also experience with Penhaligon's Monsieur Beauregard but to a lesser degree.

The sweet overtone pervades, which I think smoothens the woody facets of this fragrance so it isn't sharp and dry. After around 30 minutes the creaminess/oiliness starts to soften yet Santal-Basmati remains yummy and addictive as ever. Eventually the rice weakens but hints of it are retained. Projection is between moderate to strong for about 3 hours before gradually descending into a skin scent. If it weren't for the price, a full bottle would readily be in order for me.

Cedre-Iris (Cedar-Iris)
Cedre-Iris is a comforting, sweet, and woody blend with a lipstick-y iris. The iris is really at the fore here but the resinous sweetness and wood rein it in and prevent it from becoming cloying. The lipstick accord somehow mellows after about 30 minutes but it's still very much around, supported by the fragrance's sweet and woody backbone.

Projection is moderate overall and it starts to wane after around 2 or 3 hours. By this time most of the lipstick accord finally lets up and we get to see a little more of the sweetened wood. If you like iris in this kind of lipstick-y treatment and if price is not an issue, then Cedre-Iris may be worth a try.

Vanille-Benjoin (Vanilla-Benzoin)
This is sweet with a woody undertone. There's also something herbal and anise-like about it, at least in the opening, which for me gives the fragrance a much welcome added dimension. Given that vanilla and benzoin are supposedly the dominant notes here as what the name suggests, I was expecting something thick and really sweet.

On the contrary, the fragrance is surprisingly thin. It's not cloying at all, with the cedar providing a great counterbalance to all the sweetness. By comparison, Santal-Basmati is sweeter. Vanille-Benjoin is no beast at all and is rather delicate and soft. It's a nice take on vanilla and resins if you'd ask me, something worth trying. But then getting a full bottle is a whole different story.

Patchouli-Oud (Patchouli-Agar Wood)
Coming in a really dark juice, this one starts off with a strong, dirty patchouli supported by a light, medicinal oud in the background. The oud here isn't pungent but it isn't exactly completely glossed over either. The fragrance is very woody with a hit of smokiness. It's not dark and heavy, however, but more of a light kind of woody.

Alas, Patchouli-Oud does not live up to its name! After some time it ends up dusty and earthy that's more like dried straw more than anything, patch and oud be damned. I don't know if the dried straw accord is the vetiver but it does remind me strongly of Amouage Beach Hut Woman. Still, it's a pretty good fragrance if you don't care much about the name. Projection is between moderate to strong and starts to weaken after 3 or so hours. Price point aside, it's worth a try.

Cuir-Curcuma (Leather-Turmeric)
This is a sweet and clean take on leather laced with something I couldn't put a finger on. I suppose it's the turmeric but it's different and it isn't strong or spicy at all to my nose. The leather, however, isn't as dominant as the name suggests. It's as if it merely grounds the sweetness to give it depth. It's not an overwhelming scent, just about right for me, and with a warm and comforting feel to it, projecting moderately for the most part.

A creamy texture appears later in the game and I get a little sharpness after about 2 hours, which is something that I don't like at all. After around 3 hours it starts settling close to the skin. Cuir-Curcuma isn't my favorite but maybe it will work differently on others, so it's worth a try at least.

***********************
Affinessence Paris's Base Notes Collection sure is pretty interesting but at USD 375 for a 100ml bottle, most people will naturally have second thoughts about getting one. No matter how I love Santal-Basmati, I still cannot justify splurging on a full bottle. I'm just hoping for a good deal somewhere. Oh well.