FRAGRANCE | Fahrenheit EDT (Vintage) by Dior: In praise of an icon and its groundbreaking gasoline accord
As I write this, the unrelenting gasoline price hikes have been hitting the
memes to no end. Even fragheads have joined in the fray, sharing memes about
wearing something expensive—gasoline that is. Of course no one in his right
mind would do such a thing but there is one fragrance you can safely wear
that's famous for its gasoline accord and one that remains unrivaled to this
day: Dior's groundbreaking 1988 classic, Fahrenheit.
It's no secret that this fragrance has undergone several reformulations
through the years and not for the better quite unfortunately. I don't have the
latest version but I've read that the gasoline accord (which has something to do with the violet and how it blends with other notes in the composition) loved by so many has
been seriously toned down in favor of a more amped-up vanilla. I'm lucky to
have copped vintage formulations, though (sans box): first, a 2003 batch
(3C01), which I still can't reconcile if it's the original version or the
first reformulation; and later, a 1989 batch (9439H) of the original. The
latter bears the 30 Avenue Hoche address.
The two bottles are identical in scent, with very minor differences that only
became evident after I tried picking them apart. One thing that cannot be
denied, though, is that both have immensely powerful gasoline accords that are
practically the hallmark of this decades-old fragrance. Both are also
underscored by a prominent leather that's been completely doused in petrol.
It's a treatment that remains unique to this day, one that has curiously never
been copied through all those years (except for clones, perhaps). Compare it
to the likes of later releases like Tom Ford Tuscan Leather,
Valentino Uomo Intense, and
Gucci Guilty Absolute—all of which have either started, or are representative of, fruity-sweet,
spicy, and dry leather trends, respectively—and you'll realize just how
Fahrenheit remains one of a kind.
The 1989 bottle carries tiny hints of sweetness and citruses in the opening
but are overrun by the gasoline in no time. The scent is also flecked with a
mild spiciness that gives it depth, followed shortly by nondescript floral
nuances but are only noticeable when sniffed up close. A cool, airy contrast
hangs discreetly overhead, careful not to challenge the gasoline's dominance.
An hour or two later, a very mild sweetness begins coursing through in the
background. It's smooth, with a remote amber-vanilla resemblance that works as yet
another supporting note in the composition.
As for the 2003 bottle, the citruses in the opening are slightly more showy
but are just as short-lived as in the 1989 one. The gasoline, on the other
hand, appears a little rougher here, more aggressive. There's also something
burnt and smoky rising but it leaves after around fifteen to thirty minutes.
All other elements are practically the same except for the late-stage mild
sweetness that, similar to the petrol accord, is not as smooth.
In terms of performance, both bottles pack some serious punch. I wore the 2003
version to work today and much to my delight, I kept on catching whiffs of it
from under my KF94 mask even after several hours. Even the cloying
Clive Christian E Gourmande Oriental never came close to achieving such a feat. As far as men's fragrances
go, vintage Fahrenheit truly is the epitome of an 80s powerhouse. Yes, it does
mellow eventually like everything else, and this is when the scent reveals a
light, musky facet lurking underneath all that leather and gasoline. It's just
absolutely gorgeous and unabashedly masculine! The younger generation may
predictably find it dated but my, oh my, you're missing out on a classic and
an icon. The current formulation may be a shadow of its former scent but I
don't think it's that bad. But of course, if you stumble upon a much earlier
batch, go get it and you will be rewarded.
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