FRAGRANCE | Vial trial: Irish Leather EDP by Memo Paris

Irish Leather EDP was one of the maiden releases under Memo Paris's Cuir Nomades line in 2013. I don't know which came first between this and Italian Leather, though, but both are green takes on leather for me.

Much like its Italian cousin, Irish Leather opens with a sharp and spicy accord, with pepper playing a big part. Right from the start you'll probably already know if the fragrance is for you or not as it eschews the usual citrus greetings and other pleasantries. It's unabashedly dry and bitter, with nary a care in the world if you would like it at all.

As it transitions, the fragrance turns even drier than when it started. It's green, herbal, and grassy all at once—and quite strong, too. Unlike the vibrancy and playfulness of another grassy fragrance, 212 Men by Carolina Herrera, this one is a bit more serious, with the pepper still very much around. Nevertheless, I like the interplay among the different notes, so much so that I tend to forget that this is supposed to be a leather fragrance.

Despite having "Leather" plastered on the face of the fragrance, it isn't a dominant force in the blend. Rather, it's more of an undertone than anything. Not that it's a bad thing because it's a nice, if relatively uncommon, scent. However, I don't think Memo Paris can fault anyone for expecting a lot of leather from a fragrance that says Irish Leather.

Projection is generally moderate to strong in its first two or so hours before it starts to wane. And as the spiciness and the bitter greenness fades a couple more hours later, an ambery sweetness appears and—surprise—leather! Well, the leather's been in the background all throughout but only now when it's stripped off of all other trappings can I appreciate its subtle suppleness. It's close to the skin by now but it's beautiful nonetheless.

I honestly don't know what's Irish about Irish Leather but it clearly isn't for everyone. But for those who are into this style of perfumery, I think it's a nice year-rounder that can work well in both warm and cold temperatures. Whether it's full bottle-worthy all depends on taste and preference, however, and if you're okay with Memo Paris's price point. I like it but personally I'd rather pick something else from the line first.