FRAGRANCE | Casamorati Italica EDP by Xerjoff: Simply put, it's delicious!
I first had the opportunity of smelling Casamorati Italica at a sniff sesh in January of last year and then forgot how it smelled. I knew it was a gourmand but I guess I was so mesmerized by the darkness of Zoologist's Tyrannosaurus Rex that night that it just didn't resonate as much with me. I also knew it was released by Xerjoff exclusively for the British luxury department store Harvey Nichols and that it was really expensive, which probably only eroded my interest in it even further. But when Xerjoff announced in April that it was selling it for a limited time online, I got sucked in.
Let me talk first about the presentation. Casamorati fragrances are already packaged beautifully to begin with, and they took it even further with Italica. The sturdy bookcase-type box is bigger and instead of the pullout mechanism similar to Nishane boxes, this one features overlapping, thick cardboard flaps. There's also a thin, embossed, wraparound chamois cloth (or it feels like it at least) directly covering the bottle. The velvet-coated bottle, fitted snugly in foam that's also covered in velvet, is resplendent in scarlet. While I'm not a fan of velvet because it's a lint magnet, everything is just so extra.
The typical Casamorati bookcase-type presentation is modified for Italica.
Like I said, so extra.
Almonds and saffron lead the charge in the opening. The almond is gorgeously milky. It's not as soft as in Tom Ford Fucking Fabulous but realistic nonetheless. The saffron, on the other hand, lends a sharp spiciness as counterpoint to the sweetness. There's a certain booziness going on, strong but balanced off by a vanillic sweetness. The interplay among notes is simply stellar! Toffee creeps up after several minutes, further adding to this already gorgeous blend, and resulting in a heady mix of sweet, spicy, milky, and boozy.
The sharpness of the saffron starts easing after about an hour as the company of almond, milk, and toffee carry on, still underscored by that vanilla-laced liquor note (or liquor-laced vanilla?). Two hours in and the sharpness has completely lifted, and I'm left with a buttery smooth helping of delicious cookie batter or something. It's not like the sweet bread character of Jeux de Peau or the gingerbread cookie vibe of Baptême du Feu (both from Serge Lutens), but more like some alcohol-infused sweet treat for adults.
The almond is still there, the scent still milky and sweet. But the sweetness has been restrained all throughout, with a contrasting point introduced at almost every turn. The result is a well-balanced dessert, never sickening or cloying. Those who crave really sweet fragrances, however, may be left wanting more. I don't get any woody accord at all in the base. If at all, it's probably very nuanced that it's easy to miss.
Italica is restrained in its sweetness.
Casamorati Italica is a delicious, perfectly balanced gourmand. It doesn't shout its presence but it's noticeable, especially up close. Nevertheless, you can count on its longevity. It's best for colder temperatures but I think given that it's not overly sweet and heavy, you can still wear it in mild to moderate heat. Although I'm not totally loco about this fragrance, I love it enough to keep it.
Italica has unfortunately sold out even before the offer ended on April 19 but who knows if Xerjoff eventually decides to make and sell more in the near future? After all, limiting supply only stokes more interest, an often clever marketing strategy.
Comments
Post a Comment