FRAGRANCE | Baccarat Rouge 540 EDP by Maison Francis Kurkdjian is proof that playfulness and class can coexist in a bottle

This has got to be Maison Francis Kurkdjian's bestselling fragrance of all time. If any indication, Baccarat Rouge 540 has been cloned to death or has at least inspired many a copycat across the globe. From Arabian Mystery Soleil Mystery to Ariana Grande's Cloud, its influence is undeniable. But of course, nothing beats the original. While there's probably nothing else left to say about this creation that hasn't been said yet, I still want to put my thoughts out there. This review is for the EDP.

The presentation, while still utilizing only cardboard and none of that fancy satin or velvet cushioning, is a departure from the regular line's compact packaging. If any, the much bigger box compared to the likes of Masculin Pluriel and Grand Soir is a distinguishing mark that the fragrance is of a higher price point.

BR540 is characteristically sweet right from the beginning. It's sugary sweet, like cotton candy, which is a common association for the fragrance. Surprisingly, however, it never gets cloying. The saffron probably does the trick, as it provides a contrasting sharpness to achieve balance. It's a subtle yet clever employ that makes both Zadig & Voltaire's This is Her! and Xerjoff's Casamorati Italica addictive despite being really sweet, so it's never sickening.

The scent is pretty much the same from opening to drydown except that there's a particular smokiness later in the game. It adds another dimension and a certain depth to the overall scent profile, a little darkness as counterpoint to all the sugary cheerfulness. It's this smokiness, this inexplicable depth, that's missing in both Soleil Mystery and Cloud. This, I think, is a key element that elevates BR540 beyond simply being yet another saccharine indulgence. Again, the treatment is masterfully subtle, so the scent never feels heavy.

While projection is mostly moderate, this fragrance has got some serious legs. I know some people become anosmic to it after a while, my wife being one, but people around you can definitely still smell it even late in the afternoon or well into the evening. It's perfectly unisex although some guys are likely to be averse to the cotton candy vibe. But common, there's no need to be afraid of a little candy!

Kurkdjian definitely hit it right with BR540 because it's arguably a fairly new and unique scent profile that hasn't been done yet before. It is as playful as it is classy, so it would most likely fit any occasion with ease. And because it doesn't carry as much weight as most sweet fragrances do, you can wear it in practically any weather. This is a must-try in my book.